Resurrecting ruffles and reviving New Romantic fashion
Molly Weston posits that reviving New Romantic style is the key against conservatism in fashion

Every time I find myself mindlessly window shopping, staring at racks of the latest summer fashion trends, I notice a distinct and alarming absence of ruffles.
Granted, I am perhaps a little biased. I am, after all, a frequent wearer of New Romantic fashion. “What’s that?!” you may cry. Well, for those of you yet to discover its flamboyant wonders, New Romantic was an early 1980s subculture movement defined by its ruffled fop shirts, Napoleonic military jackets, and overall androgyny. It was based on a mix of 18th century Romanticism and glam rock – a bit like if the Duke of Wellington wore bright red eyeshadow and sported a bold lip look.
Several music artists became associated with the movement: think Duran Duran, Spandau Ballet, Boy George, and Adam and the Ants. Back in the day, you probably could’ve gone to Mash in your ruffles and then drunkenly danced to New Romantic music, too. It was all-encompassing: perfect for all you musos out there and theatrical enough of a style for any ADC frequenter to enjoy.
“Where are the sashes and braided jackets of the New Romantics? The unrestrictedly bold colours, bright fabrics and billowing sleeves?”
The individuality of New Romantic fashion is wildly different from the current sorry state of things. There has, this year, been a rise in the popularity of so-called ‘capsule wardrobes’, fostering a ‘unique’ sense of personal style with staple pieces. The current consensus seems to be: “Fashion rules are meant to be broken!” and “Be a trendsetter, not a trend follower!” However, TikTok and Instagram’s algorithms are simultaneously shoving us all towards a bland sort of micro-trend sameness. Where are the sashes and braided jackets of the New Romantics? The unrestrictedly bold colours, bright fabrics and billowing sleeves?
Everyone is trying so hard to find unique clothing that our fashion ends up looking exactly the same. Isn’t that the opposite of what we want? It’s like an army of consumerism and fast fashion descending upon us with pitchforks. Even when we think we’re breaking the rules, we’re functioning only within acceptable norms. This, unfortunately, extends to the recent increase in conservative fashion, mirroring a shift towards right-wing political values. The rise of TikTok aesthetics, such as the 2021 ‘Clean Girl’ trend, promotes minimalist modesty and ‘traditional’ femininity. As of 2023, the modest fashion market could “grow to USD 473 billion at an annual growth rate of 6.6 per cent”. All of this reflects a surge in freakishly outdated norms. Scary stuff, if you ask me.
“It questioned gender, unabashedly flamboyant and avant-garde. And, most importantly, unashamedly itself”
But New Romantic fashion smashed these acceptable norms into teeny tiny pieces. The early 1980s were a difficult time for many, with the advent of Thatcherism, youth unemployment amok, and emerging debate over binary gender roles. The New Romantics offered a style defined by its audacious celebration of self-expression and identity. It questioned gender, unabashedly flamboyant and avant-garde. And, most importantly, unashamedly itself. Isn’t that something we should all embrace?
It makes me a little sad that New Romantic fashion fell so quickly out of style and seemingly disappeared from public knowledge. I have only been acknowledged as a part of the subculture once, as I paraded across the road looking half like a pirate and half accidentally like Napoleon Bonaparte. An older guy (who had likely been a teenager when the New Romantics were thriving) complimented my bright purple cravat before jokingly asking me if I could get him tickets to see Duran Duran. I was pretty embarrassingly excited by this interaction, to say the least.
The truth is this: New Romantic fashion represents a political rebellion against rigid gender expression and consumerist sameness. I hope to spot more of it around Cambridge, especially in such a politically active, vibrant and innovative city. I don’t know about you, but I personally would love to see a few more frills and a bit more eyeliner lining the streets.
So here’s me raising a glass to the New Romantics, and to all things dandy. Especially against the current political climate, I’m sure you can see why I like my shirts to flaunt a ruffle or two.
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