Few things come close to the elite craftsmanship of haute couture. As fashion’s most innovative showcase of high-end fashion design, the art of haute couture calls to expect the unexpected. Paris Haute Couture Week 2022 was a whirlwind of shock, surrealism and seduction this past week, as luxury fashion houses unveiled their haute couture collections for Autumn/Winter ‘22. Unsure of what you missed? Scroll through for some of the key highlights from a truly spectacular season. 

Schiaparelli

By far my favourite collection from this season’s showcase, Daniel Roseberry proves once again that he never misses. “Shocking! The Surreal World of Elsa Schiaparelli” was the sensational exhibition that paid homage to the brilliant minds who inspired Elsa Schiaparelli herself, from Christian Lacroix to Yves Saint Laurent. Seductive cut-outs, sculpted bodices and dramatic plunging necklines formed the basis of a deeply sensual collection with impeccable displays of tailored craftsmanship. A floundering array of sunflowers, roses and lavender fronds, expertly moulded from hand-painted silk, bloomed from the busts of Roseberry’s slinky silhouettes. Deeply romantic yet cunningly avante-garde, I have a feeling this collection is one for the history books.

Alexandre Vauthier

Eye-catching simplicity was the charm of Vauthier’s Fall 2022 couture collection. A sexy but subtle exhibit with an affinity for metallic sequins, the vision here was all about tailored precision and provocative spectacle. Some have accused Vauthier of playing it safe, but few can argue with his ingenious manipulation of material, giving rise to a charismatic interplay between the natural light and his hand-crafted artistry. One sheer gown was embellished with shiny, feather-like fringes that bounced off the light as the model sauntered down the runway, brilliantly encapsulating Vauthier’s signature blend of show-stopping spectacle and effortless coolness. 

Giambattista Valli

What’s Haute Couture Week without a floor-sweeping ball gown? Unadulterated glamour and extravagance were top of the agenda for Giambattista Valli, who celebrated his tenth anniversary as a couturier with a fun, flirty, balloon-filled set and a voluminous array of pastel and jewel-toned gowns. The magic of Valli’s couture is that he sticks to what he’s known for, yet never comes across as boring or repetitive. The cascading trains of baby pink tulle and complex, multi-layered skirts on show this year were some of Valli’s most dramatic yet, honouring his first return to the runway since 2019 with an outrageous explosion of kaleidoscopic joy. 

Giorgio Armani Privé

Adding a sparkling touch of vintage sophistication to this season’s showcase was Armani Privé. Exhibiting some of the most delicate couture craftsmanship of the season thus far, the collection was inspired by the vibrant elegance of the nightclubs of the 1920s and 30s. That called for a series of expertly tailored velvet and beaded jackets alongside skirt suits, bustier dresses, and column gowns that dazzled in intense shades of midnight blue and taffy pink. A glittering parade of timeless romance, this was a collection of diverse, stylised silhouettes designed to fit every kind of woman, dreamy enough to melt even the coldest of hearts. 

Jean Paul Gaultier

Oliver Rousteing’s one-off collection for the king of haute couture was nothing short of spectacular. As a die-hard Gaultier fan, I was thrilled to see Rousteing pay homage to Gaultier’s trademark of surreal, cinched cortestry. My favourite look simply had to be the metallic turquoise mini dress, a piece directly inspired by Gaultier’s canonical ‘Le Male’ perfume bottle. What was really special about this collection, however, was how committed Rousteing was to Gaultier’s code of atelier craftsmanship. He stepped up to the plate with incredible precision and execution; key highlights include the incredible illusion of a woven men’s pinstripe, achieved through several insertions of white crepe that took over 600 hours to complete.