Destination X
Setting Cambridge aside: Saskia Walker suggests a weekend’s worth of escapism in Buenos Aires, Argentina
Let’s suspend reality for a minute: forget about the million and one things we’re meant to do and set Cambridge aside. What if we somehow found ourselves in Buenos Aires, Argentina for a couple of days?
Friday afternoon sees you, map in hand, hailing a cab. The driver is unsurprised; he knows the place. Where to stay: The Milhouse. There are, in fact, two Milhouse hostels in Buenos Aires (I highly recommend making sure you’ve actually booked into the same one as your friends). While perhaps unoriginal and far from charming, there’s no getting away from the fact that it’s where the party’s at. The Milhouse throws a house party of sorts every evening until 2am, at which point you’re transported to BA’s most buzzing clubs. Where to party: Terrazas del Este. It’s a far cry from Cindies: beyond the series of open-plan rooms, French doors extend onto a gorgeous veranda, which in turn leads to a marquee, a garden, and – because why not – a bridge overlooking the river. There’s absolutely no excuse not to stay till sunrise.
On Saturday, once the mists of last night have cleared, I’d suggest an amble around La Recoleta Cemetery. A rather dismal suggestion, perhaps, but totally worth it: the walled cemetery is a maze of stunning marble sculptures, flowers, and, oddly, countless cats. Eva Peron’s tomb cannot be missed.
Palermo is the next must-see. Although it might be busting the budget somewhat, Buenos Aires is the place for steak. Where to eat: La Cabrera. The queue’s often a mile long, and you may not eat before midnight, but once you’re tired of the complimentary champagne, nip to a nearby bar for a drink while you wait. The food really is utterly divine, and, although there’s no way you’re dancing after that, Palermo is the perfect place for a stroll through hidden galleries with live music on rooftop terraces.
A Sunday afternoon is spent strolling past hawkers selling rings, old records, leather satchels, the brightly-patterned plimsolls that everyone is wearing, and all manner of trinkets sold by charming Argentinians blowing kisses and crooning compliments – all to the beat of the drumming band blocking off the entire street. La pièce de résistance: Where to wander: San Telmo Street Fair. As the afternoon heat fades, you get cosy at one of the bars spilling out onto the Plaza Dorrego. Coloured lights dangle between trees, forming a square on the cobbles, onto which the dancers step. Tango is the heartbeat of Buenos Aires: this is what makes it a place you’ll never forget.
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