Jumpsuits and reshaping the disco trend
Arushi Dattani explains why the jumpsuit can be one of the most exciting pieces in any wardrobe
Jumpsuits, rompers, catsuits – whatever you choose to call them, there’s no denying their recent boom in popularity, making an appearance in everything from period films to the catwalk. The versatility of the outfit and its use in challenging gendered styles has made it a favourite with both men and women, with styles ranging from blue denim to black velvet or satin, enabling them to be dressed up (or down) for any occasion - a practical addition to any wardrobe.
First created in 1919 as a practical uniform for parachuters, jumpsuits started to gain popularity in the 30s, when Schiaparelli’s designs started incorporating a more elegant look. Although these designs didn’t reach mainstream fashion until after WW2, the jumpsuit became a fashion staple for working women during this era. By the 60s, the jumpsuit was appearing in Vogue, who even released sewing patterns for readers to create their own jersey jumpsuit.
“In recent years, it has regained popularity as a staple piece”
By the late 60s and 70s, the jumpsuit had become an extremely popular choice. Around this time, many popstars started incorporating the look into their performances – notably Elvis Presley, Cher, and ABBA – and the jumpsuit became progressively bigger and bolder, eventually becoming associated with the disco trend. After falling out of fashion for a couple of decades, the jumpsuit made a return in the 2000s on the Balenciaga runway, evolved to become a much less elaborate, simpler staple. Nowadays, the jumpsuit can be much more versatile, with different fabrics, styles and ways of accessorising it, and, in recent years, it has regained popularity as a staple piece.
My personal obsession with jumpsuits first started with the ITV series Why Didn’t They Ask Evans, based on the Agatha Christie books of the same name. Lady Francis (Frankie) Derwent, the show’s central amateur detective, sports jumpsuits (or culottes) on more than one occasion throughout the 1930s-based series. Noticing this, however, requires careful observation, as the trousers are flared enough to give the impression of wearing skirts. This was a clever trick, showing the character’s rebellious, progressive nature – in fact, Frankie’s outfit choices were deliberately anachronistic, being several years before such trends became popular, for this very reason.
“Jumpsuits can be worn and accessorised to express our personalities and beliefs through experimenting with and challenging social norms”
In this series, the jumpsuit is used to reject the idea that clothes should be associated with only one gender. Although they appear to be dresses at first glance, their trouser-like nature references typical men’s fashion, making jumpsuits the perfect hybrid between masculine and feminine fashion. This idea is further emphasised through Frankie’s more boyish outfits, wearing jodhpurs, trousers and waistcoats in a time where this was much less acceptable for women, even borrowing outfits from Bobby, the other half of the detective duo. Hence it is clear that jumpsuits can be worn and accessorised to express our personalities and beliefs through experimenting with and challenging social norms.
Since watching this series, I have begun to notice jumpsuits dotted around more and more, from adverts to my favourite books and films to multiple clothing brands. Jumpsuits are clearly gaining popularity, but how can we incorporate these trends in our everyday life?
On a day-to-day basis, denim jumpsuits are a handy staple. They can be paired with a statement piece, like a gold necklace or earrings, or maybe with a belt, boots or cute jacket – perfect and practical for a day of lectures and classes. As we move into the summer months, lighter, flowing fabrics such as cottons may be more sensible, paired with floral motifs and pumps. Alternatively, a more structured linen look with block colours can look very sophisticated.
“There is nothing worse than an ill-fitting jumpsuit”
Jumpsuits can also be the perfect choice for a formal, or even May ball. As a formal outfit, they are one of the few outfits that can be worn by practically anyone, regardless of gender. Styles can be varied, with simpler, more traditionally ‘masculine’ styles with collars and a straight cut, or more elaborate and ‘feminine’, with flowing styles and gathers, enabling experimentation and inversions of typical ideas of gender. As an eveningwear piece, more luxurious fabrics mimicking velvet, silk or satin are best, perhaps with darker colours and a statement gold piece of jewellery (don’t go overboard), or more delicate silver jewellery, maybe paired with black heels. The key to wearing a jumpsuit, however, is the fit. In my opinion, there is nothing worse than an ill-fitting jumpsuit. Although there is nothing wrong with wide trousers, the waist should ideally be fairly close-fitting, so a belt is always a useful addition to the look.

You call it repetition, I call it reinvention
So, I hope this has given you a few ideas on how to wear this timeless piece. However, it’s important to remember that there are many different ways of wearing jumpsuits, so have a go and experiment, but always remember that styling and accessorising is key with this garment. As it is a one-piece garment, the best way to use it to express your personal style is by your choice of accessories, so never be afraid to try bold accessories and looks.
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