Katie Cornish

As soon as you step through the grand glass doors into the newly refurbished surrounds of The Rupert Brooke, you feel special. Greeted with the sounds of soft jazz and the aroma of delicious food, it really isn't an exaggeration to compare the atmosphere and service here to that available at a Michelin starred restaurant.  

I visited The Rupert Brooke with my parents on a cold Monday evening, a week after it re-opened in October, and we were very impressed. Welcomed in with a smile by the friendly and attentive manager, we were  directed to the well-stocked bar and comfy sofas, while our table was made ready. Browsing the extensive wine menu while sipping our pre-dinner drinks was a great way to relax and soak up the ambience. 

Stomachs rumbling, we moved over to our table, which was beautifully laid out with delicate glassware, and almost instantly a board of fresh, warm bread. The food menu is, admittedly, limited, but very well constructed, containing pub favourites such as ham, egg and chips, and fish pie, as well as a nod to more sophisticated fare in the form of an antipasti platter and marinated goats cheese. 

I ordered the roast saddle of lamb, which was served with Tenderstem broccoli and Dauphinoise potatoes, and it far exceeded my expectations. The lamb was tender and the rich gravy accompaniment had gentle undertones of red wine. It does The Rupert Brooke a disservice, however, to reduce it to 'pub food', for its exceptional execution puts it above any pub I've been to. My meal was rounded off perfectly with a dessert of hot chocolate fondant and Nutella ice cream; although it was a difficult choice between this and the baked Camembert with truffle honey.

Everything about this restaurant works well, from the locally sourced food to the high-end furnishings and luxurious bathrooms. It isn’t cheap, with three courses and a glass of wine coming in at around thirty-five pounds, but it serves good quality food without pretension, managing to achieve the perfect balance between fine dining and minimal fuss or ceremony.

It is not somewhere you would be able to eat daily, especially on a student budget, but I would highly recommend it as a special occasion venue to visit with parents (particularly if they are footing the bill), as it has ample parking and is situated close to town. I certainly plan on heading back for that baked Camembert soon.