Few dress codes have been as divisively interpreted as that of black tie. To my mind at least, it above all implies celebration –the Rat-Pack, Hollywood, big band jazz, and the dance scene in It’s a Wonderful Life. To others, black tie is more likely to signal hierarchy; while it is not necessarily something that every student can afford, if you are going to black tie events in these coming years, you should seriously consider investing in a dinner suit, instead of repeatedly renting one, because you’ll always look and feel better in a dinner suit that is your own, and it will work out cheaper too. Here is my guide on where to look for a black tie suit, with options for cost or quality. 

What to Look For

A great black tie will be made in barathea wool, or a pure wool/mohair blend. Synthetic blends with polyester are neither great nor awful, but it should be expected to have a lower price. Forget the label in the neck, pay for the material.  

“Unlike some of the wavy grams you’ll inevitably find on a HSPS fresher, men’s evening wear actually thrives in thrift.”

Everyone looks great in black, or a midnight blue, dark enough to be nearly indistinguishable from black. If you do decide on a colourful dinner jacket in white, burgundy, or tartan, please make sure that you match it with an equally flamboyant personality and perhaps more importantly, black trousers. These looks best when sitting high upon the waist, upheld without a belt (perhaps with braces).

Most dinner jackets you find will be single-breasted, which is incredibly elegant and compliments most body shapes. When searching however, one should not hesitate to try double-breasted options, as they can still look young. The fit of both types of jacket is crucial, and ideally you want the buttoning to happen around your natural waist, which is most likely the point where you are slimmest. A flattering cut can massively change how you feel while wearing the suit.  

The collar should have either shawl or peak lapels, but instead of the slim lapels offered on many modern models, you should instead find ones that are as wide as possible in order to emphasise your chest. The lapel facings can be either grosgrain, which is discretely elegant, or satin, which can look fantastic but also risks looking cheap. Notch lapels are not necessarily a bad choice, but if you are looking to get something new and different you should for something that stands out from a regular suit. Speaking of which, avoid flap pockets if possible; the goal is to achieve a sleek, continuous silhouette from top to bottom.

In many cases alterations will be necessary. This is not a huge problem, as long as your dinner jacket fits well around the torso and shoulders. For a good local option, try Rose’s Tailors’, opposite Murray Edwards. 

Where to Look

Many high street clothing companies don’t offer evening wear, and when they do, they operate within the same price-pressed framework as suits, meaning that there are inevitable compromises regarding cloth and cut. The high-street option does have some advantages: it saves time, you know what you are getting, and it never risks looking too old fashioned. The reason why I advise against buying one of these is qualitative: the difference between a great black tie and its £250 off-the-peg iteration is far more noticeable than it would be in the case of a regular suit. Black tie is not just a suit. One is worn to work, the other to celebrate.  

Thread Flair: Matching May Ball Dresses

Instead, if you have the means, you should look to invest in a quality tuxedo made as close as possible to a classic model. For a student budget, the easiest company to recommend is the Dutch ‘Suitsupply’, which sells evening wear for around £350, and has stores in London. The other solution is equally valid and in my opinion more fun: vintage, second-hand, eBay. Unlike some of the wavy grams you’ll inevitably find on a HSPS fresher, men’s evening wear actually thrives in thrift: most pieces have been rarely worn, their style is relatively timeless, and they are not as in demand as they used to be. Furthermore, these pieces are nearly always less expensive, and yet of greater quality, than anything new you find in stores today. Both of these options are great: one costs more money and the other takes more time, but both promise much greater quality than the aforementioned high-street option.

And remember…

Black tie is fundamentally only a dress code; look as good as you want, but don’t forget to enjoy yourself when you are wearing one. And don't think this is a style only for the boys either…