Three underated evensongs you need to visit
Isabel Lee and Seun Ige find solace in Cambridge’s lesser known evensongs
Evensong in Cambridge, especially in the legendary chapels of Kings’ and St John’s, remain a celebrated tradition. Yet the broader choral evensong tradition quietly thrives in college chapels across the city. Away from the usual crowds and touristy activity, colleges like Magdalene, Peterhouse, and Fitzwilliam provide musical experiences remarkable for their warmth, history and sense of surprise.
Today, evensong services are all too easy to miss in the rhythm of university life. Many students and residents see them as somewhat old-fashioned or overly formal, perhaps influenced by the cassocks worn by the choir and a structured liturgical format, or imagine that these services are reserved for a narrow segment of the community. However, those who do participate often discover that evensong offers a uniquely welcoming environment and a restorative pause outside of academic and social demands.
Magdalene
Magdalene’s evensong is “short, soothing, and gently theatrical,” ideal for winding down on a Sunday night or as a perfect lead-in to a formal dinner. The chapel, built in the 1470s for Benedictine monks, immerses worshippers in rows of candlelit stalls, storied memorials and dappled stained glass. The chapel is small but gloriously ornate, so each service feels intimate (even giving us a bit of drama at times). Like extras from The Crown once described; each aspect of Magdalene’s evensong works together to heighten immersion. The close arrangement of choir and congregation fosters an immediate and deeply engaging musical experience, while the presence of brass commemorations offer historical resonance. The service allows the tradition and formality of choral robes and ritual to coexist with a genuine sense of camaraderie. Many describe entering this chapel as like stepping into “a timeless hushed theatre,” where contemplation and community are balanced. Visitors are often encouraged to engage in physical acts of ritual, such as lighting candles themselves. For those in search of a tranquil experience or a chance for peaceful introspection, Magdalene’s evensong offers one of Cambridge’s most memorable and persistently underrated atmospheres
Fitzwilliam
I began serving as chapel warden at Fitz a couple of weeks into starting life here, and it has been rewarding to both attend the services and help out behind the scenes. Fitz stands out for its modernity, its location slightly removed from town (though not that far), and something that may not be widely known across the Cambridge community; the recurring motif of ship-like design throughout the college.
Some of the most interesting architectural aspects of the college are in chapel, and were realised by John MacCormac. The building has a crypt, intended to represent the “underworld”, while the main chapel space represents an “inhabited world”. The chapel space feels especially so, thanks to the expansive windows behind the altar, which look out to our college’s wonderful gardens.
The flexible layout allows the congregation to sit closer together than in many older colleges, creating a sense of community. The choir is positioned nearby, making the music feel engaging. The brick construction absorbs sound effectively, giving the acoustics clarity without excessive reverberation. Everything in the chapel is movable, so the chairs can be arranged in different ways, allowing the space to function for a variety of purposes beyond worship.
Peterhouse
Walking into Peterhouse Chapel, there is no attempt at grandeur - just stained glass and a striking sense of calm, under the glow of candlelight. Peterhouse evensong is described as “charming, small and delightful, almost jewellery-box-like,” and offers a moment for pause rather than spectacle. Services here are “a spur-of-the-moment spiritual adventure” where rarely more than a handful of attendees are present in the most genuine sense. The liturgical format makes for a short and well paced service, and it is also wonderful to hear higher woman voices mixed with the mens, creating a different sound to the traditional male dominated choral arrangement. After the final ‘Amen’, the chaplain often lingers to chat, and everyone seems to leave feeling like they’ve been among family, not strangers.
These services offer a rare opportunity for tranquillity and reflection within the routine of the city. Some of the youngest and best singers perform in evocative spaces that often escape notice. Unlike larger scale evensongs, a small college evensong invites personal connection and there is unique immediacy where you aren’t lost in a crowd, so each note feels closer. These services are intentionally inclusive, with no expectation to follow the prayers or hymns. Even for those who are not religious, attending these services can be a source of genuine belonging. An evensong from a small college is surely one of Cambridge’s most welcoming – and unexpectedly rewarding – hidden rituals.
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