Vintage Varsity: dress like it’s 2004!
Resident archivist Eleanor Dougan explores fashion photoshoots from 2004 and 2005 to create a helpful style guide for how to dress like a Cambridge student from twenty years ago
In an era where the fashion cycle seems to have reduced to a mere five minutes, it is refreshing to rewind 20 years and note the consistencies in styles and the popularity of second-hand clothing throughout the Varsity issues from 2004 to 2005.
I have investigated – to quote a 2004 writer – the “sartorial melting pot which constitutes scholarly chic” using the plethora of fashion photoshoots in noughties Varsity to put together this handy handbook which will allow you to channel the former Cambridge students of the 2000s and be inspired to add a Y2K twist to your Michaelmas wardrobe.
Despite the claim by the reviewer of Cambridge’s 2005 fashion show that “Cambridge and fashion” are “not words that fall in the same category”, the avant-garde clothing of the various fashion shoots displaying the innovative ingenuity of Cambridge’s stylists certainly begs to differ. I must instead agree with a 2004 writer who encourages eclecticism and extravagance in student fashion and notes that “university is actually about being frivolous, decadent and downright stupid a lot of the time”.
Where to shop
The go-to brands of our student models range from familiar names such as H&M or M&S to fallen soldiers such as Topshop (now available on Vinted or in the back of your mum’s wardrobe). Unsurprisingly, the London to Cambridge pipeline was just as prevalent in the noughties as it is today, and various clothing items originate from stalls in Camden Market and shops in Islington.
“There seems to be some confusion regarding the eclectic mid-2000s colour palette”
Clothing and accessories from charity shops also feature heavily in their outfits with Oxfam and Save the Children as clear favourites. The Varsity June 2005 shoot titled “This year…fashion saved the world” reflects this progressive attitude towards sustainability by exhibiting t-shirts featuring the slogans “save the tiger” and “support organic farmers”.
Colours and fabrics
There seems to be some confusion regarding the eclectic mid-2000s colour palette. Varsity fashion titles range from October’s “Glorious Technicolour” to November’s “Monochrome Madness” mere weeks later. An earlier October article also advises readers to “forget green” and embrace blue this season!
Fabric is similarly contentious with the abundance of blue denim jeans undermined by the mod-like appearance of brown pinstripe trousers in a shoot promoting “casual classiness”. Sequins are also an inescapable, glitzy essential often found on vests and cardigans. Woollen jumpers seem to have been a winter staple which reached a climax in February 2005 with the rise of “guerrilla” knitting in Cambridge when a PhD student founded a knitting group. This hobby was met with surprising criticism, and the student received hate mail condemning knitters as a “F****ing bunch of pussy knitters”.
Strange silhouettes and loopy layering
Creativity and eccentricity are key for developing the silhouette of your 2000s-inspired look. An October 2004 writer observes the common combination of “over-sized jeans and tiny tops” as well as the appearance of “micro-mini skirts”. This notion of showing skin is echoed in a February 2005 article which reports on the “nipple tassels, feathers and fishnets” present in a burlesque revival show. Likewise, futuristic underwear and leotards appear in a student photoshoot that same month.
“Creativity and eccentricity are key”
In contrast, the “high concept” garments on the catwalk in Cambridge’s March 2005 fashion show reveal a tendency towards excessive fabric and dramatic lines: the reviewer recommends “layers of net” for “instant fucked-up ballerina chic” and recalls a “tutu worn around the breasts” as well as “underpants with a hood attached”.
One layer is simply not enough! This certainly seems to be the motto of any mid-2000s stylist whether it be in regard to t-shirts on top of vests, skirts on top of jeans, or even scarves and necklaces on top of each other… (see below)
Headgear and neckwear: heads, shoulders, necks and hair
Hat experimentation abounds in these photoshoots – with berets perhaps expressing a desire for Parisian sophistication, and trilbys maybe indicating a Cambridge-inspired inclination towards ‘old money/dark academia’ fashion.
Flashy, extravagant necklaces are also a must for anyone time travelling back to 2005. Beads and pearls – and even a silver belt – decorate the necks of these former students. Indeed, bare necks are not an option for these models who, more often than not, are adorned by thin scarfs. These even feature in a June photoshoot, highlighting their status as a chic trend rather than an object with any function for providing warmth.
Headwear in fashion is pushed to an extreme in March 2005 where our model poses with a plastic police helicopter perched in her hair! This playful attitude seems to sum up a key mission of our foregone Varsity stylists who frequently utilised photoshoots to explore unconventional looks.
Belts belts belts
Accessories are prominent in these photoshoots, however, it is the bulky, garish belts which most often catch my eye. Any Y2K look would be incomplete without an outlandish, chunky belt which either secures some low-waisted jeans or cinches in a flowy dress. A Christmassy 2004 tableau showcases a range of such belts, often either cited as “model’s own” or “stylist’s own” (it is evident this item is for daily use rather than simply brought out for photoshoots); black, blue, and pink belts crested with large gold buckles are the centre of attention in these festive fits.
Shoes: complete the look/the finishing touch
Not much has changed in regard to the prevalence of Doc Martins (or some other brand of boots) as a fundamental part of any humanities student’s wardrobe (I am definitely looking forward to getting my boots out again once autumn hits). Rules for footwear appear to be pretty casual with one article endorsing “kitten heels”, “old converse trainers”, and “stilettos” as appropriate lecture attire - although, “flip flops” are reserved for Sundays!
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