If, like me, you spent a bit too long on Instagram over the vacation, you might have started to see the same pattern I’ve noticed over the last few weeks: all of a sudden, everybody wants to be a horse girl.

Everywhere you look, there seems to be an overflow of equine content. It’s impossible to scroll social media without seeing at least one video of a majestic-looking horse cantering along a sunlit beach; influencers show themselves dressing up for a day out at the stables; even H&M has released a line of activewear aimed at equestrians. While being labelled a “horse girl” used to feel like an insult, aimed to embarrass those with more animal companions than conventional friendships, it now feels like a status symbol.

To understand why the equestrian aesthetic is back in vogue, it’s important to first understand the place horse riding has in fashion and popular culture as a whole. Horses and equestrian sports have always been closely linked to luxury. Horse racing and polo have each been nicknamed “the sport of kings”, and the British Royal family is known for their equestrianism; Prince Harry was recently seen playing snow polo in Colorado. Foals with particularly impressive pedigrees can sell for thousands, while racer Fusaichi Pegasus became the most expensive horse ever when he sold for $70 million in 2000.

“Not many riders wear Ralph Lauren and a Rolex to the stable”

Many designer labels also incorporate horses into their brand. The iconic Ralph Lauren logo features a polo player, Dior makes saddle-shaped bags, and Gucci products frequently feature horses as decor. Both Coach and Hermès feature a horse-drawn carriage in their logo. In fact, Hermès was originally a harness and saddle manufacturer, and still makes riding equipment to this day. Even if you’re not dressing your noble steed in an Hermès halter, owning a horse isn’t cheap, and neither is riding or looking after one. All of these things make horses the ideal accessory for devotees of the ‘old money’ aesthetic, which has also dominated the internet recently, and which romanticises ideas like ‘quiet luxury’ and the ‘look’ of generational wealth. A horse is the ultimate in quiet luxury – why bother with a supercar when you could have a much more subtle Selle Français?

“Part of the charm of equestrian chic is its griminess and authenticity”

Of course, the problem is that the ‘horse girl’ aesthetic is just that – an aesthetic. While horses make excellent accessories, their reality is nowhere near as clean and polished as the Instagram influencers would like you to believe. Not many riders wear Ralph Lauren and a Rolex to the stable. You’re not even meant to wear your hair down, let alone spend time and effort on a blowout! Horses themselves, for all their majestic beauty, are also disgusting; removing your noble steed’s own manure from his mane and tail is an experience all equestrians must eventually come to terms with. Riding is also a dangerous sport. Horses are prey animals who may instinctively flee from any perceived threat, and they don’t come with airbags if you’re unlucky enough to be on board when they bolt.

I can’t help but wonder, then, why the horse girl aesthetic is having a revival, and why people idealise the equestrian lifestyle so much. When outfits colour-coordinated to match your pony are so far from the reality, what makes people long for the slobbery, manure-caked dream?

“While I doubt any Cambridge students ride a horse to Sidge, there’s always the risk of falling off your bike!”

Personally, I think this is where the ‘old money’ explanation falls short. Old money is very much about imitating a glamourised, retouched version of a luxurious lifestyle; while many people who promote the horse girl aesthetic do lean into this, I also think part of the charm of equestrian chic is its griminess and authenticity. Horses, though closely associated with luxury, are also particularly resonant symbols of freedom. The image of a horse galloping over open land is alluring, and the feeling of riding one is difficult to describe to someone who hasn’t experienced it. If you’ve ever driven through the New Forest, you might have been lucky enough to see the semiferal ponies that are native to the area, wandering across roads oblivious to the traffic around them. Horses represent a kind of wildness and liberty that, in a world where technological advancement is rapidly progressing and AI is increasingly injected into every conceivable product or service, is incredibly appealing.

Maybe, then, it’s time for a different kind of equestrian chic to come into vogue – something that’s still stylish, but practical too. Long, fitted leather boots are a genuinely practical choice for the colder weather, and real leather will last longer. I’ve had my riding boots since I was fourteen, and they’re still going strong! Wearing layers and long-sleeved shirts are both equestrian essentials, as well as a decent pair of gloves. If you take a tumble off a horse, covering your shoulders and hands can protect you from grazing them pretty badly, and while I doubt any Cambridge students ride a horse to Sidge, there’s always the risk of falling off your bike! For those feeling the limits of a student budget, Mane ’n Tail, a brand of equine shampoo, has developed a human cult following, and is even stocked in Superdrug if you’re willing to try it on your own hair. It’s the year of the horse after all – why shouldn’t it be the year of the horse girl, too?