Formerly a symbol of femininity, modesty and traditional Indian culture, the sari has lately seen a resurgence in popularity. Until recently, we were starting to see saris as old-fashioned, impractical garments, with connotations of outdated female gender stereotypes and ideals. Yet, in the past few years, younger generations have been taking the traditional garment and putting their own spin on it. I’d like to explore some of the reasons behind its recent popularity and how our generation has adapted it to suit current trends and needs

“Through these modern adaptations, we’ve been inspired once again to wear this elegant garment”

The sari is composed of a long rectangular piece of cloth, consisting of varying materials (cotton, silk, chiffon etc). It’s around six yards in length and is wrapped around the body using a series of pleats and drapes. Since the colonial era in India, it has been paired with a blouse, often tightly fitting with short sleeves, and a floor-length petticoat in order to fit with Victorian ideas of modesty at the time. They were traditionally worn by married women around the house, styled, pleated and draped differently according to the state in which they were worn. In my grandmothers’ generation, saris were still commonly worn daily garments, but they’ve slowly begun to die out, with later generations sporting them only for festivals and weddings, if that. Recently, however, our generation seem to see the appeal of the garment once again, but not in its traditional form…

The past few years have seen women and girls wearing saris in more ‘modern’ or Western ways. Blouses have been replaced with crop tops, petticoats with jeans and leggings. Bright, bold colours and modern prints feature in the modern sari, not to mention sleeveless and strapless blouses and even an occasional metal corset, as in the 2023 Offbeat Sari exhibition at the Design Museum. Saris have also been paired with unusual accessories, such as trainers, skateboards, and helmets, highlighting their versatility and even practicality, despite the many misconceptions that this is not the case. Through these modern adaptations, alongside modern sari exhibitions and celebrities – both Western and Bollywood, including Zendaya, Gigi Hadid and Deepika Padukone – choosing to wear saris on the red carpet, we’ve been inspired once again to wear this elegant garment.

“I did enjoy wearing the outfit and I have to say that it was easier to walk around in than I’d expected”

However, one big factor in the current sari obsession is the cult Bollywood film Rocky aur Rani ki Prem Kahani (“Rocky and Rani’s love story”). Released in 2023, the film features Alia Bhatt as the titular Rani Chatterjee – a strong, modern journalist and ardent feminist, who also happens to wear a series of stunning saris on a daily basis. The film’s director, Karan Johar, has spoken passionately about his desire to demonstrate how it was completely possible to be both a modern woman and wear saris – two ideas that, until recently, seemed contradictory. In the film, Alia’s saris give a modern twist to the garment, using block printing and bold, colourful patterns on the light chiffon fabric. Her blouses are no longer the sleeved traditional versions, but have contemporary styles, often sleeveless, with sweetheart necklines and contrasting colours to the main fabric. Also different are the accessories she wears with it. Whereas saris are often associated with heavy jewellery and make-up, Alia often pairs them only with statement earrings, setting the outfit up as a more practical look for daily wear.

Hence, this film has inspired a whole new generation to navigate the stash of saris in their mother’s and grandmothers’ wardrobes and find a whole new way of wearing them. To me, the influence of this film has been clearest in seeing one of my most rebellious cousins (most often found in jeans) clad in a stunning light blue sari at a housewarming event only last year, apparently inspired by Alia’s character in the hit film (which she is now obsessed with). I’ve even tried the trend myself, borrowing one of my mum’s green lace saris for a wedding earlier this year, thereby avoiding the trouble of having to find a new outfit. I did enjoy wearing the outfit and I have to say that it was easier to walk around in than I’d expected, however, to my mum’s exasperation, my pleats kept falling out, leaving her to redo them at least two or three times…

It is definitely a garment that requires a few wears to get used to – both in learning to drape it and in wearing it – but it’s definitely worth it and, if you’re thinking about trying one, I’d recommend looking on social media to find different, original ways of draping the sari and for inspiration for accessories and contrasting blouses. Maybe you could try rummaging through a relative’s wardrobe or borrowing one from a friend. Who knows, it could be the perfect outfit for your next formal or May Ball, even for daily wear, if you’re bold enough. Why not give it a go?