If you were to look back through the work of famed fashion designer Giorgio Armani, you would observe a myriad of clean-cut, elegant pieces that work with the human silhouette to flatten it underneath gently falling layers of material. Each piece would be carefully sculpted in a palette of monochromatic triumph, as Armani is renowned for his skilful use of blacks, whites, greys, and silvers. In the world of high fashion, Armani is a ground breaker: even though each of his new collections mirrors his last in their colour and composition, they are also distinctly different, and the artful subtlety of these variations are what assures his longevity and continued creative dexterity.

Yet, at age 81, Armani might strike you as too far over the hill to be making his voice heard in the fashion industry. Now in his 41st year in the realms of couture creations, the designer did indeed come to it later on in life, only establishing his label Armani in 1975. He originally aspired to have a career in medicine, and enrolled at the University of Milan’s Department of Medicine to begin doing so, but left in 1953 after three years on the course. He then joined the army – an unlikely move for a man who would one day end up being one of the most notable fashion names on the planet, but nevertheless a demonstration of how the unconventional can sometimes lead to something even greater.

Armani began his life in fashion when he became a window dresser for La Rinascente, a department store in Milan, following his spell in the Italian army. He rose through the ranks to become a seller in the menswear department; and then, during the 60s and 70s, worked for the Nino Cerutti Company, whilst also developing his aptitude for freelance designing. At any one time, Armani contributed to the collections of up to ten manufacturers: an impressive upward progression from his days as a window dresser.

The first Armani collection came to light in October 1975. Both men’s and women’s clothing were shown, all under the Armani name. When the first collection was revealed, Armani used it to make a bold statement in the world of fashion, and to put his stamp on his brand, beginning what would become a worldwide phenomenon. He moved away from the trend, and established himself as a designer who wanted to introduce more naturally fitting clothes, with a subtler colour palette to match. Quite famously, about his clothing collection, he once remarked: “My vision was clear: I believe in getting rid of the artifice of clothing. I believed in neutral colours.”

Today, the Armani brand has over 270 stores in 37 countries across the globe. He was the first designer to make the move to ban models with a BMI under 18, and his power in the fashion world does not go unnoticed. He is a trendsetter: something he achieves by actively renouncing his allegiance with the newest vogue style on the market. Whilst he is fiercely protective over his conventional monochromatic creations, his most recent Spring/Summer 2016 collection has turned heads on the runway. For the first time in many years, Armani has broken his own rules.

Before revealing the collection, Armani, in a press interview, said: “inside of me there are memories and sensations that I needed to let out” – and he certainly kept his word. Jackets were considered to be the backbone of the collection this season, many of which Armani has designed to be single-breasted and/or collarless – a confident move away from the predictable elegance of his previous work. Appearing distinctly Mao-like in composition, and containing beaded chinoiserie-inspired embellishments or decoration, the collection certainly breaks the mould of traditional Armani design and brashly rejects what the world is used to, deftly introducing a splash of excitement and colour.

When the collection was unveiled in Milan Fashion Week, on 28th September, the atmosphere was set using digital water lilies that flowed gracefully down the runway, creating an eerie red glow: an indication of change on the horizon for the designer and his followers. The colour red was indeed a motif for the collection that followed, and the image of the flower was mirrored in the light and airy fabrics chosen by the designer.

Armani coined his own phrase to describe the collection when he released it, calling the essence of it ‘fil rouge’ (red thread). To him, the collection is “about a new femininity, strong and powerful”, as well as about “sensuality, but never in a way that is unsophisticated”. This sentiment is undeniably prevalent when looking at the collection: the shades of red used in the collection range from rose and geranium to a deep blood colour. All shades are imaginatively paired and mixed to create a bold contrast to the lightness and delicate nature of the fabrics chosen.

Organza fabric provided the main basis for Armani’s newest collection, which allowed the designer to create see-through, yet structured, trousers, skirts, and shorts for both day and evening wear. He layers ribbed organza trousers under skirts or dresses to create the effect of layering and texture, smoothing the silhouette of the body, whilst creating a sense of mystery about what lies beneath: it is sensual and delicate, all at once. Dubbed as “more fun” than his usual work by people in the industry, the collection certainly turns its back on its predecessors.

So, as the New Year dawns on the fashion world, and Armani’s newest collection finally hits the shops, some four months since it was revealed on the runway, there is an air of excitement across the couture elite. Armani’s designs are sought-after, but none quite as much as this one. It goes without saying that a man who can still captivate the modern world with his designs, 40 years after taking those first tentative steps into the limelight, deserves praise. Not only does Armani effortlessly contribute stunning designs with every new collection he releases, but also dodges the dangerous waters of being outdated and old-fashioned. Despite his age, he will never be too old to make his voice heard in the world of fashion. Looking back over his magnificent rise to fame from relatively humble beginnings, there is really no wonder over how he rose to such eminence and success.