Bread and Rutter: Glasshouse Coffee

Violet food critic Emma Rutter returns to her native Northern Ireland, but she can’t stop reviewing coffee

Emma Rutter

The toast of LisburnEmma Rutter

To anyone from Northern Ireland, a review of a Lisburn café may seem a little strange. To those of you not from Northern Ireland, this choice of café may seem equally strange, although not quite for the same reasons.

Let me give you some context.

Lisburn is a rather sad town. I’m allowed to say that because I spent seven years of my life at school there, and often visit the town at weekends when I’m at home. It was originally a market town, and still has a small market on Tuesday mornings, but apart from that, it has little else to offer. It is home to several schools, several restaurants and a leisure complex, but little by little, it is losing customers. It is only 10 minutes away from Belfast by train – 15 minutes if you take the car – and the retail park at Sprucefield (boasting the largest Marks & Spencer in Europe) has sucked most of the life out of the town centre.

“You can choose between all four flavours of San Pellegrino fizzy drink – a winning retail strategy if ever there was one”

This is why Glasshouse Coffee deserves a review. It sits alone in Lisburn Square (a lovely square near the bus station which has, unfortunately, failed to thrive), bravely attempting to sell its wares where other cafés and shops have tried and failed. It only opened in November 2016 but its friendly staff, attractive surroundings and tasty treats have led to five-star reviews from numerous customers on its Facebook page.

The view from the "large conservatory"Emma Rutter

The name, ‘Glasshouse’, is inspired by the building, which is, in effect, a large conservatory. This allows the maximum amount of light to enter the café, creating an airy, friendly feel. On sunny days you can sit outside, but more often than not you’ll wish to sit inside at one of the tables dotted around the edges of the room, or perhaps take a seat at the large communal table in the centre. With easy access to a car park (directly underneath), it makes a great central meeting-place for the local community; recent events include an RPM Motorsports press conference and an acoustic night.

The real question is – can it improve Lisburn’s standing? I think so. Glasshouse offers breakfast, lunch and all manner of snacks to keep you going throughout the day.

For breakfast, try their non-greasy fry, served with potato bread, or porridge with berries. Avocado toast is a bargain at under a fiver, and they serve pancakes if you’re in more of an American mood. I can personally recommend their Malteaser buns and Fifteens (also known as fridge cakes), supplied from local businesses in nearby Ballynahinch and Belfast. Other tempting traybakes include ‘caramelitas’, made with digestive biscuits, caramel and chocolate, and muffins filled with juicy berry compote. Many of these offerings are gluten-free, too, which is no mean feat for NI.

At lunchtime you could choose a traditional bowl of Irish stew, or soup if you fancy something lighter. They also offer toasted ciabattas, wraps and quiche, with the menu changing regularly according to the season (or the favourites of the customers). I was really impressed by their dedication to supporting local businesses; coffee comes from local roasting company Bailies, and tea from well-known Belfast speciali(tea) brand, Suki Tea. And for those warm summer days, you can choose between all four flavours of San Pellegrino fizzy drink – a winning retail strategy if ever there was one.

I could say that my opinion of Glasshouse Coffee was highly influenced by the warm weather and sun associated with my last visit. Given that I visited the same café several times over the Christmas holidays and found it to be equally charming each time, though, I’d say that’s a good sign. So, if you do happen to find yourself in the Lisburn direction, make this your next stop