If you knew how much the present writer wants a steak (it’s two o’clock, I’ve just had the huge lunch of an arch-procrastinator), you’d know how good this Steak and Wine Masterclass at the River Bar Steakhouse and Grill was.

Last Thursday, we found our way to the tastefully stylish joint (over the river from Magdalene) to learn about steak, wine and how they go together (as if you need telling? – no, really, it’s worth it), with a three-course meal to finish.  From the beginning, the sheer quantity of meat and booze on the table before us suggested that the evening would struggle to go badly.

We started with a steak and wine discussion—a short, informal lecture from a local butcher (Andrews of Cambridge) and vintner (Bancroft Wines).  We were told which wines to pair with which steaks, why certain cuts taste like they do (i.e. which bits of the cow do more exercise than others), and the latest in steak trends (rib eye or sirloin? It’s a tough call).

The red wines were excellent, particularly the Chilean ‘Las Mercedes Assemblage’ from Julio Bouchon (2007)—a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Malbec, its combination of fruit and spice partnered the steaks perfectly.  Then we had the steak tasting, where we were offered small bits of rump, sirloin, rib eye and fillet to try.  The meat was top quality—all British beef, sourced from Norfolk and Suffolk, and served char-grilled to medium rare.

After a quick break to sample the bar (decent g & t’s, by the way) we moved on to the meal.  It was a set-menu (no vegetarian option—obviously) made up of no-frills, good quality food.  First up was rich and succulent smoked salmon with top-notch home-made bread.  Then—of course—our choice of steak.

I opted for without exaggeration the tenderest fillet-steak I’ve ever eaten—smaller than the other cuts on offer, but utterly delicious.  Conscientious as ever, I told my plus-one he’d have to choose something else, and the rib eye he went for was also excellent.

The eye for detail which so characterises the River Bar’s interior had clearly been turned on the food: our steaks came on wooden chopping-boards, with hand-cut wedges arranged in small copper tumblers.  We made room for a perfectly executed crème brûlée, served with crisp home-made fruit and nut biscotti.  All three courses were washed down with our choice of the four reds tasted earlier.

My advice is to put away £40 and treat yourself to one of these evenings.  It might sound a little dear, but for the quality and quantity of the food it’s certainly worth it.  The smaller mezzanine dining area and the liberal sloshing of wine gave the evening the feel of a jovial dinner party—but one with an expert chef, char-grilling facilities and very decent cellar.  In this respect, it beats the noisy formals you might be relying upon to get you through fifth week hands down.