Well, Autumn-Winter 09 is officially upon us and the fash-pack is divided in two: the recessionistas and the optimistas! So whether you prefer a sombre colour pallet or are drawn to brights and jewel tones A/W 09 has something innovative to offer.

Dsquared², Alexander Wang et al. sent an army of moody, studded, black-clad models down the runway. Their silhouette was severe; their image powerful, even scary, but very recession-appropriate. Think power shoulders with a cinched waist in smoky-grey to black tones, gelled back hair and coal-toned eyes.

Tough, eighties body-con dresses had a strong presence at Christopher Kane and Alexander Wang but minimalism took centre stage as Wang playfully mixed an enormous oversized boyfriend shirt, with this season’s must-have practical and uber-stylish shoe – the military boot. Check out Jean-Luc Godard’s classic film À bout de souffle for inspiration for this look – Jean Seberg exudes androgynous utilitarian chic à la Nouvelle Vague. Keep last year’s brogues. Charity-shop effeminate tailoring.

Beautiful, sensible collections without a doubt, but whimsical they were not. The man to give us our fantasy fix was none other than Marc Jacobs. The eighties still featured, but this time in all its spangly, crimped glory! Yes, crimping is back. Marc Jacobs has spoken. The aim of the collection was to put the fun back into getting dressed, and he does not disappoint. Neon hues, kitsch neckerchiefs and bold prints abound (electric-coloured paisley print? Who would have thought!) Source the look in vintage and charity shops or have a peep at fabulous Spanish designer Gloria Ortiz if you want to invest a bit more in something luxurious..

Another optimista came in the form of Stella McCartney who injected a note of scandal into her collection with her unabashedly sensual lingerie-inspired dresses. Much as it pains me to promote Topshop in an Arcadia dominated Britain they have made the underwear-as-outerwear look their own this season.

Alber Elbaz summed up the sombre, post-recession mood for A/W 09 perfectly, this look is “about what women need from fashion.” It’s utility, puro y duro. What Jacobs and McCartney offer is the beauty and carefree spirit of optimism, a fantasy in the glum economic climate. So in the battle of reality versus fantasy, buy it all…or get ready to take sides!