Many bottles to choose from, but which is best?Jeff Kubina

In a former life I was lucky enough to lead an infamous Cambridge political society that has been ‘exposed’ a number of times by this esteemed publication. The most recent exposé of the society in question came to the conclusion that it bore more resemblance to a wine-appreciation society than to a serious and austere political association. Indeed, it was less of a university-wide society and could be described more as a university-wine society. I believe that my distinguished service as Chairman and former committee member of the Cambridge University Conservative Association (CUCA) means that I am the perfect candidate to write an article reviewing some of my favourite wines and hopefully offering some pearls of wisdom to those wishing to enjoy a tipple with friends over formal hall.

When it comes to tasting and commenting on wine there is a tendency to descend into grandiose, universalising language. This is quite unnecessary as people have different preferences and tendencies. I have tried to select a few reasonably-priced and accessible wines that I have particularly enjoyed over my time at Cambridge. My own preference is the ‘Old World’ style as opposed to many of egregious antipodean ‘New World’ upstarts than can be found in many a supermarket. Monty Python’s famous sketch ‘Australian Table Wines’ rather sums up my own attitude towards them! In terms of procuring wine I would recommend both the Cambridge Wine Merchants on King’s Parade and Marks and Spencer in Market Square. The staff in the Cambridge Wine Merchants are particularly knowledgeable and are always on hand to offer some good advice.

If you are planning on hosting a few preprandial drinks in your college set prior to formal hall then I would recommend Marks and Spencer own-brand Prosecco. This usually retails at around £10 but is often on offer for around £7.50. It is best enjoyed chilled and as an aperitif; if you can launch the cork out of any window and land it on the manicured lawns of your college then you gain maximum marks. The prosecco in question is reminiscent of a Strauss Waltz – light, bubbly and hugely enjoyable in copious quantities. On the palate it is creamy with some nice hints of citrus and pear. This really is a great example of the ‘fashionable fizz’ that has really taken the British market by storm as an affordable alternative to champagne. If you’re looking for a musical accompaniment to any sparkling wine then I would recommend the Danish composer Hans Christian Lumbye’s ‘the Champagne Galop’.

From the hills of Northern Italy we now turn to France and the Bourgogne (Burgundy, to the unpretentious) region. I would recommend pairing up with a friend and bringing a bottle of white and a bottle of red wine to formal hall. For the starter it is worth investing in a versatile white wine. It is worth spending in the region of £9-12 on either a Petit-Chablis or Mâcon-Villages, and the Cambridge Wine Merchants should certainly be able to assist you in finding something appropriate for around this price. Jean-Marc Brocard Petit Chablis 2013 is a particular favourite of mine and is available at the top end of the price range specified. This is a very dry chardonnay with a superb palate of fresh pink lady apples and a wonderful but subtle chalky finish and fine minerality. This wine is within the price range specified and a good introduction to the more prestigious Chablis that are out there. The subtlety of the chalky finish of this wine means that it compliments many a fish starter or chicken liver parfait.

If you are looking for something at the bottom end of our price range then Mâcon-Villages is a good entry-level white burgundy. Marks and Spencer’s 2014 Mâcon-Villages is particularly good and has duly received the Decanter International Trophy in the Decanter World Wine Awards for a bottle under £15. Unlike a lot of chardonnays from the Burgundy region this is not aged in oak barrels, despite the deceptive straw colour of the wine itself. Thus, like the Petit-Chablis this wine compliments white fish and light starters superbly with its lovely fresh citrus notes.

When picking a wine to accompany you to formal hall versatility is the order of the day, and my most frequent choice for the occasion was a bottle of Rioja. The Cambridge Wine Merchants have an embarrassment of riches when it comes to this popular Spanish wine that is made predominantly out of the tempranillo grape. In fact, The Telegraph recently reported that within three years Britons will buy more Spanish wine than French. For around £12 the Navajas Reserve Rioja 2009 is a particularly good example of Rioja. Aged in American oak barrels for a minimum of three years this is a full bodies red wine with great tannins, hints of cinnamon and tobacco and a wonderful vanilla finish. This wine will really compliment any meat that you are having at formal and is particularly enjoyable with game or red meat.

What if you are a member of a clandestine political society and want to try and come up with some sort of elaborate political plot to oust a rival and need a bit of lubrication to get those creative and competent juices flowing? Smith Woodhouse Ruby Port is available at the Cambridge Wine Merchants for about £10. Port is a wine fortified in Cognac barrels which is commonly enjoyed as a postprandial. On the nose there are wonderful hints of raisins with a smooth finish. The high alcoholic volume and sweetness of port means that it’s a natural partner to a lovely farmhouse cheddar on a cold and foreboding Michaelmas evening. I would highly recommend the cheese and pie stall located in Market Square for the perfect accompaniment to any glass of port.

It appears that my time as Chairman of the Conservative Association was not wasted, as the more disillusioned I have become about politics over my time in Cambridge, the more involved I became in CUCA in order to transform it into meetings more of ‘sparkling wine enthusiasts’ than political hacks. I am glad that an investigative journalist acting on behalf of this publication enjoyed the social setting of one of my legendary drinks events and I hope I have imparted some wisdom on to those who wish to learn more about wine while studying at Cambridge.