Food: The Hole in the Wall
Varsity’s food critic Jessica Donnithorne visits The Hole in the Wall, opened by ex-Cambridge student and masterchef finalist, and lets us know whether she thinks the hour bike ride is worth it
Food writer, small holder and Masterchef 2010 finalist, Alex Rushmer is not your average Cambridge graduate. Not least so because in July he opened his own restaurant at the Hole in the Wall free house in the sleepy Cambridgeshire village of Little Wilbraham.
Picturesque doesn’t even begin to cover it– it’s a balmy Indian summer day with glorious golden autumnal leaves ready to start dropping at any moment. The pub is quaint; it could almost be an advert for Country Living. Mini strawberry plants sit happily on tables in the bar whilst the restaurant side steps it up a notch with a refined rustic feel.
After the bike ride the first thing you’ll want to do is quench your thirst with a nice cold local beer/ale. Fair do’s. But Alex’s food is beckoning… scallops that just melt in the mouth with cauliflower puree and curried cauliflower pakora. Then there’s a hearty portion of 12 hour slow-roasted pork shoulder with roast potatoes, to-die-for crackling, gravy and apple sauce. Don’t forget pudding either, you’ll need the energy if you’re cycling back – a salted caramel chocolate pot with brownie and vanilla ice cream.
The menu is constantly changing with plenty of choice and seasonal, local produce is used as far as possible. Behind the scenes there’s an eclectic mix of chefs including a recent graduate from Queens’ and a bio-chemist pastry chef. Alex graduated in 2005 from Trinity Hall with a degree in PPS, gave the city a go for a while before settling down with his girlfriend and their three chickens in the Cambridgeshire countryside. In 2010 he made it through to the Masterchef finals producing some incredible food in incredible locations including cooking for a Maharajah in India.
Getting there: hop on a bike, it’s about an hour’s ride for your average cyclist. Either that or wait for the parents to visit if you’re too lazy/penniless.
Lunch: 12 -2pm. Open Wednesday to Sunday
Dinner: 7pm onwards. Open Tuesday to Saturday
Tel: 01223 812282
Primrose Farmroad, Little Wilbraham, CB21 5JY
www.holeinthewallcambridge.co.uk
Allow £30 per head for 3 courses and a glass of wine/beer
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